Friendly Faces and Swampy Places: It’s Not Just Gators in the Okefenokee, Y’all!
Ask anyone and they’ll tell you, I was born to be a frog.
I’m slimy, small and I adore the Okefenokee Swamp! I grew up here, playing in the mud
with bugs as any feral child would. So, when I was invited to stay in the Okefenokee
region after its exciting World Heritage Designation, I leapt at the chance to return to my
amphibious roots!
We began our Journey at the entrance to Okefenokee Adventures in Folkston (also
known as the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge). Here, I got to experience the
swamp in its purest form, taking a 90 minute boat tour through tranquil waters and open
prairies with knowledgeable nature guides, Katie and Josh. The best parts of the tour
were surprisingly not the gators, but the other plants and animals thriving in the Refuge;
I loved the carnivorous hooded pitcher plants, the tiny chirping cricket frogs, the stately
Great Herons and flocks of white ibises. I even got to see an Anhinga for the first
time—the aptly named Snakebird! I loved the cypress knees, (which I could just picture
Yoda squatting on in the bogs of Dagobah) as well as the white water lilies opening
sleepily in the morning light. I felt at peace, like I was just another animal, floating
aimlessly in the swamp, listening, breathing, living.
And, the Refuge isn’t the only entrance! Okefenokee Swamp Park in Waycross
welcomes travelers from all over to experience the histories and cultures born amongst
the cypresses. Here in the “Land of the Trembling Earth,” you can get more up-close
and personal with interactive exhibits, guided boat tours, a 45-minute swamp train ride,
as well as a wildlife show, which is where we got to meet the sweetest little Gopher
Tortoise named Blue!
Now for the big question: Where can I stay? While there are limited primitive camping
tours directly inside the swamp itself, (as well as a few quaint inns and Air BNBs in cities
like Folkston, Waycross, and Homerville), there is a way to be close to nature without
the risk of waking up to a gator outside your tent. Look to Okefenokee Pastimes! This
campground and RV park sits right across from the Refuge entrance in Folkston, and is
outfitted with cabins, “glamping” tents, primitive and raised tent sites (as well as
Geodomes: coming soon). Okefenokee Pastimes values experience over expense and
has an on-site restaurant and bar, welcoming non-campers too! It’s a great place to
disconnect from the digital world and experience the Okefenokee at its finest.
When you grow up here, a piece of the swamp’s magic lives on within you, making the
world seem just a touch dreamier, so it’s hard to pick out only a few things to gush
about, but I’ll try and be brief!
Art and history buffs, visit the Heritage Center in Waycross. Take in the stories of the
people who have called the Okefenokee region home. From rotating local artist galleries
to documents and histories preserved in Founder’s Hall, Native American and Black
Heritage exhibits, Old 9 and other locomotive treasures, print shops, historic homes,
moonshine stills and Walt Kelley’s famous comic strip character, Pogo, there is a little
something for everyone here!
Then, of course, you have your breathtaking State Parks: Laura S. Walker State Park in
Waycross and Stephen C. Foster State Park in Fargo. Both Parks exude the natural
beauty of the swamp and offer an array of activities and camping options for true
outdoorspeople! Laura S. Walker has everything from hiking trails to cottages, kayak
and boat rentals and an 18-hole golf course! Stephen C. Foster is a bit of a drive, but
dadgummit, so worth it! This park is remote, it’s the primary entrance to the swamp and
a certified dark sky part of the region—perfect for stargazing romantics like me!
With all this traveling to and fro, I developed a beast of an appetite and stumbled upon
Richard’s BBQ in Homerville! Gregory (son of the original owner Richard) has
developed a booming catering company, hotbox and BBQ sauce empire that is
sweeping the South’s tastebuds. One of those small, hole-in-the-wall shops with
homemade southern goodies, Richard’s has anything from fresh-made broccoli salad to
the only hogshead cheese for miles. The store seems to have a revolving door of
hungry customers and we were lucky enough to sample some of Gregory’s
fresh-prepared sausage and homemade BBQ sauce. Good god, I’ve never eaten
something so mouthwatering in my life!
In all seriousness, it truly feels like a dream to see the swamp I grew up visiting become
something internationally recognized and protected. Come experience the wonders of
the Okefenokee Swamp for yourself and let it surround you in its peaty majesty!