Good Eats, Historic Streets: Iconic Georgia Restaurants
BY Lee Bowen
Smith House - The Spread (1)
Smith House - me and the sign
Smith House Dessert

 Let the record show that I love food. Chips, dips, short rib, broccoli rabe – you name it, I’ll eat it! But, my love of food doesn’t stop at flavor, it’s the whole dining experience that entices me. When I sit down inside a restaurant, I want to know the history of the place, experience the ambiance, and see what makes this particular restaurant unique. All of these qualities are very important to a foodie like me, and often denote how long a restaurant will stay in business, so I decided to go directly to the source and find some of the most iconic restaurants in Georgia to witness the blueprint of quality dining.

First stop: The Smith House Inn and Restaurant in Dahlonega. I brought my mom and my aunt along with me to this historic restaurant to get a taste of classic southern cuisine served family-style. My mom favored the fried okra and sweet creamed corn, while my aunt enjoyed the mashed potatoes and gravy, homemade cornbread muffins, and unlimited country fried steak. I was a huge fan of the strawberry shortcake they served for dessert (even though I was stuffed, I ate every bite). The Smith House has been open to the public since 1899, and with over a century under its belt, there’s no denying that the cooks here know exactly what they’re doing. With dishes passed down for generations, family-style dining, a limitless buffet of southern classics, and a warm setting full of history, The Smith House is a portal to grandma’s kitchen with all of its comforts, delights, and crispy buttermilk fried chicken!

Desperately seeking more deliciously crispy chicken, I visited Mary Mac’s Tea Room in Atlanta. Established in 1945 at the end of WWII, this iconic tea room was born out of Mary Mackenzie’s desire to offer a refined space to women where they could enjoy light lunches in an alcohol free environment (don’t worry, they brought back the booze – I checked). What began as a small enterprise during the temperance movement became an oasis of southern comfort and welcoming service. From wedge salads to hushpuppies, fried chicken livers to catfish filets, and shrimp and grits served alongside broccoli souffles, Mary Mac’s Tea Room is a special place with food that has been made the same way for over 75 years.

I didn’t have to travel too far to find my next meal and this joint had me saying a certain phrase for days: “What’ll ya have?” That’s right, I visited the Iconic Atlanta institution that’s been in business since 1928, The Varsity. This family-owned drive-in is known for its fast, fresh eats, and even friendlier service. They even have their own language for ordering that made me feel like I sock-hopped back in time to the 50’s. Pro-tip, order a “Naked Steak” for a plain burger, or grab a “Yellow Dog” if you’re craving a classic frank with mustard! The Varsity is a household name for people who have grown up in or near Atlanta, and many of us remember it as the place we went to with our granddads for the first time, where we got the best chili-dogs and onion rings we’ve ever had while wearing the little paper hats the employees wear. The Varsity is an iconic piece of Atlanta’s culture that only gets better with age.

The Vortex - front entrance
The Vortex - me and burger

I had one last stop in Atlanta before moving on to greener tomatoes, and despite this restaurant’s relatively young age, it’s one for the history books! Welcome to The Vortex. This bar is eccentric, electric, and downright fun! Enter the maw of the “laughing skull” doorway, and you will find quirky rules posted on every available surface (my favorite being the “no whining” policy). You have to be 21 to enter, and despite being 27 years young, I only just visited for the first time (with my own little historic icons: my parents)! Established in 1992, The Vortex became the grunge getaway for people who are all about the snark (no substitutions). This restaurant doesn’t take itself too seriously, with kooky signs plastered everywhere (even on the ceiling), a mustache-wearing sharkhead above the bar, and moody red lighting. The Vortex is dim, atmospheric, and cool, with fantastic burgers (I tried the “Fat Elvis” and wow, who knew peanut butter on a burger would work), delicious fried pickle spears, great beer, and has exactly what you want out of a 90’s restaurant playlist – let’s just say this place is Cobain’s Nirvana! 

Now for some honorable mentions:

First up is The Colonnade. Hit up this iconic Atlanta restaurant for a taste of classic southern fare done right for over a century. This restaurant is the second-oldest of its kind in Atlanta, and you can certainly taste the history in each bite!

The secret is in the sauce at this iconic Georgia restaurant. Join me at the Whistlestop Cafe, home of Fried Green Tomatoes! Born out of a movie set, this iconic cafe serves up quality southern cuisine with a smile. Come on by for a taste of their most famous dish. Want to guess what it is?

On your way out of Juliette Georgia, don’t forget to visit Georgia’s oldest pit-cooked BBQ joint in Jackson County. Fresh Air BBQ has a legacy of doing things well, offering up juicy BBQ, homemade Brunswick stew, whole hams, and other hearty southern delights.

We end our journey in another iconic tea house, this time in the notoriously beautiful Savannah, Georgia. The Olde Pink House, originally a historic mansion (with a pretty silly story in regards to its pink hue), became the famed restaurant it is today in the 1920s. On their menu, you’ll find wonderfully classic southern cuisine with a New American twist. Settle down in this plush palace for a round of “Pink Lady” cocktails and while you’re at it, get me an order of cornbread fried oysters!

All in all, when it comes to good eats, trust your gut.

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